Tuesday, August 28, 2007

The Last Two Weeks in Beijing

So for the last two weeks in Beijing, I tried my best to tour as many place as possible, and I compiled some of the worthwhile places I have visited.

Bookstore

On August 8, I went to 第三极图书城, a big, comprehensive bookstore in the HaiDian district. It sort of resembles a Borders in the States, except for it is in an eight-story tall building with Level 4 and beyond to itself. It sells all types of Chinese books, movies, music, and some foreign books as well. There is a wide selection of books; besides literature, it also includes books about economics, politics, law, medicine, travel, and psychology. Books are pretty inexpensive (that is, if you are converting the price to American dollars) - about 10 Yuan to 40 Yuan a piece. I really enjoyed my afternoon there as I browsed through the Literature section and looked up authors that my HBA teachers and language partner suggested. There are lots of students in each of the section of the bookstore, and it’s pretty easy to strike up an conversation with any of them. I talked to this econ major who’s interested in literature about “The Red Chamber of Dreams,” one of the four all-time Chinese classics. There is a nice, spacey coffee shop on the six floor with a really nice view (okay, not the nicest view because you just kind of see traffic and smog, but it’s nice for Beijing), so I was able to grab a couple of books and read them while sipping a cup of nice, steamy milk tea . In the foreign language section, there is plenty of classic Chinese literature translated into English so if your Chinese level is not good enough to be able to comprehend the original text, you can definitely check these out! The music section is definitely worth visiting as well. Chinese CDs are pretty cheap, usually under 6 American dollars. This way, you can get fantastically inexpensive music and no guilt about downloading free music off bit torrent or something. There will also be people with hearing disabilities coming up to you and trying to sell you one of their key chains.

Capital Museum of China

On August 11, I went to the Capital Museum of China. It’s not a museum purely dedicated to art, which was something I was not aware of and did not like at all. It’s more of a historically based museum that includes exhibitions about the traditional Beijing life, the history of this capital city, and also other cultural aspects of China. Of course, it also had the traditional watercolor paintings; plates, vases, and other little things made of jade or copper, and Chinese calligraphy. My favorite part of the museum is the exhibition in the basement that featured art pieces by local elementary/middle school students, with its theme based on the upcoming Olympics.

National Art Museum of China (NAMOC)

The day after we had our performances for HBA, or August 12, I went to NAMOC. It turned out to be my favorite place in Beijing! Even though it was not as big as the Capital Museum of China, it contained plenty of modern Chinese art and traditional Chinese watercolor paintings. I have always wondered what exactly is modern Chinese art, and basically what I took away from this visit is that it’s just anything not in water color with the traditional motifs of mountains and bamboos, and done by a Chinese person. Modern Chinese art can be done in many different types of media, and most of them in MAMOC were done in oil paint. On the second floor, it also had an exhibition titled “From Titian to Goya,” featuring some over a hundred oil paintings, ranging from Baroque to Renaissance, from a museum in Spain. It also had a couple of El Greco paintings that, of course, just perplexed me. The museum was really crowded as anywhere in China. Unlike the LACMA or the Getty in Los Angeles, NAMOC was packed with people, whose voices were amplified by the walls in the exhibition hall. Even though I had my ipod turned on to maximum volume, it was still difficult to block out all the noises. It sort of reminded of MoMA or the Met on a busy weekend, except worse. I took my sketch book with me to draw a couple of figures that I liked, and immediately there was a crowd of people, very inconspicuously looking over my shoulders. That made me feel very uncomfortable because I felt that my own personal space has been violated. Making matters worse, people were eating and drinking next to these priceless paintings like they are just looking at their neighbor’s family photos on the wall. The stinky smell of some nasty of a hot dog pervaded the area around the Goya painting. I got spilled on by this guy with a Coke in his hand. He mumbled an apology, threw some napkins on the floor to soak up the spilled soda and walked away, leaving me there to clean up the mess he has made. But even despite the very lousy atmosphere of the Chinese museums, NAMOC is still a very worthwhile place to visit.

Chinese Ethnic Culture Park

On the same day as I visited NAMOC, I also went the Chinese Ethnic Culture Park with my cousins. I am sure people will have different taste in touring, but I actually found the place amazingly boring. It’s a park dedicated to celebrate the different minority groups that reside within China, including Mongolian, Miao, Man, and other ethnicities. Even though they are all Chinese, but they have their own individual languages and customs, all different from the ethnic group that makes up most of mainland Chin and most the Chinese that the Western world has contact with, which is the Han group. Besides the novelty of the style of houses of the different culture groups and the beautiful sceneries in same parts of the park, it was very tedious. We saw performances by different culture groups, but their half-hearted, lazy movements and singing just put me to sleep. Nevertheless, it is a great place to learn about another side of China and its cultural minorities. China is not as homogenous as we thought it is.



798

On August 14, I visited 798, a development of modern Beijing and the fruit of its western influence. It is an art district with many foreign and local artists alike who display their masterpieces and put them up for sale. Walking into 798, you would not be impressed immediately because it just seemed like a regular Chinese living community with really shabby buildings. The rundown-ness of the place is actually something that gives 798 its artistic characteristic. There are lots of interesting graffiti on the wall and corky little coffee shops scattered throughout. 798 is the place to visit if you want to see what modern Chinese artists are doing and the influences from the western world they have received. I saw a couple of artists I like; one of them draws these lines that look like a ball of yarn and compose a figure if you stand far away from the painting. The name 798 is also a pun in Chinese, because the number 798 in Chinese sounds like “Seven Bars” in Chinese as well.


Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Last China entry...

I am back in LA, and I am organizing my journal and everything for HBA/Light Fellowship, here are my last journal entries from China dated back to last week:

August 6, 2007

The Innocent Generation

So my friend and I had another late night/early morning conversation yesterday night/this morning about the people we have met in China and how do they differ from our American friends. One of the conclusions we have come up with is that most of the Chinese friends we have made in Beijing and for me personally, in Nanjing, are much more innocent than our friends from the states. I got a feeling of this when I hung out with my friends in Nanjing prior to coming to HBA. I felt that most of their friendships are very tranquil and close, unlike a lot of the turbulent and hectic friendships I have witnessed in the States. Maybe this is generalizing quite a bit, but really, relationships between, at least teenagers, are just a lot simpler in China. There are rarely issues with best friends/honesty/trust/gossip/etc between friends, at least between those people I have hung out with in Nanjing. A lot of the people I have met have never had a boy/girlfriend even though they are 19/20/21 years old. Most of them don’t have conversations with their parents about anything besides academic and current news. I feel this could be a cultural phenomenon, in that China has started off to be a small village type of community where everyone knows everyone and families live in the same place for generations without moving. Also, the environment where teens grow up to be in China does not allow them to have time to think about friendships/relationships/interaction skills since they are so caught up in the academic course load and testing pressure. Most of my Chinese friends’ live comprise of school, homework, test prep classes, English enhancement classes, and maybe KTV with friends once in a while. A couple of people have had relationships in high schools, but they were the kind where they will probably end up in a marriage, meaning they are still going on right now. A lot of them don’t deal with issues such as religion (as a result of communism, who does not believe in the power of religion) and personal identity (who you are as a person in the states could be identified by many things, such as culture, ethnicity, gender, interest, etc).

I now sort of wish, instead of HBA, I have picked a study abroad program where I can take regular Chinese classes with Chinese students. I really wish I could have communicated with them about their interest, views on different matters, priorities and anything else that’s going on in their minds. I think they are such an interesting generation as they have grown in such a rapidly changing country (the generation gap in China now is 5 years, just because in these 5 years, the country will change dramatically). The Chinese teens’ their traditional values are being countered by some newly introduced Western philosophy everyday, and that’s a difficult situation to be in. I am sure my brief interaction with them for the three months I am in China has not exposed me to everything they are.

August 9, 2007

I went to 圆明园(Yuan Ming Yuan), or the Garden of Perfect Splendor, today with my cousin and my friend Amy, it was absolutely beautiful. I wish I had visited this place a lot sooner. It has a lot of ruins from the attacks by the Anglo-French force in 1860. The ironic thing is that a lot of the buildings/temples/constructions they have bombed were of Western style.


There are lots of pretty bridges like this one in the garden.


I am looking very contemplative in front of bunch of ruins...


The ruins are melancholy-ish beautiful..

I also went to see a movie for the first time in China tonight. My cousin memorized the date wrong for the Harry Potter release in China (it was midnight Aug. 10th instead of Aug. 9th – bummer!) so we watched Mr. Bean’s Holiday. I have been made aware of the fact that a lot, a lot of Chinese people like Mr. Bean movies/comedies. I am not sure exactly why (maybe it’s just because I do not get British humor or Mr. Bean and I don’t click) they would like it so much because I found the movie absolutely boring except for he had a pretty interesting face.

I also discovered that a lot of Chinese young couples like to date in McDs or KFCs, quite a sight in these fast food places (that are still considered pretty nice restaurants in China) around 8-10pm. If you go to a 24hour McDs around 2AM in the morning, you can still see couples there, and a sprinkle of people sleeping too….pretty interesting sight…

Monday, August 6, 2007

Journal from the past two weeks

Okay, so for the past two weeks I have been really lazy with internet, and since blogger is really slow on my computer for some reason, I have just been journaling on my laptop and planning on posting all at once. And for the past week, my internet actually died, so now it’s fixed, and here are my ramblings for the past two weeks…

July 23, 2007 – Some changes are needed…

I went to the Beijing train station today to pick up one of my friends from Nanjing, who’s visiting me here in Beijing. It was just a good feeling going to a train station and knowing your way around the subway, like which stop to get off and which way to go for a transfer, because it felt like I know Beijing pretty well. Okay, maybe not pretty well, but well enough that I felt I am comfortable in the city by myself.

However, after thinking about how much I really know Beijing for a while on my way to pick up my friend, I realized I actually don’t know Beijing at all. Okay, I have been to Tian An Men Square and Summer Palace, visited a chaguan (or Beijing tea house), seen Beijing Opera, and shopped at various swap meet type of stores (very popular in Beijing and everywhere else in China). The few times I have been out with friends were to places for American/international students where the menus are all in English and things like sandwiches and whatnot are top choices. I realized that I really have not explored Beijing in the way I would like to see a foreign city. The only time I felt like I really connected with Beijing on a personal/explorative level was when I went to one of the Hutong with one of my interviewees for the field study project. He and I walked around the Hutongs for a couple of hours, looking at different constructions, talking to the residents sitting outside, walking inside people’s houses/yards (with their permission, of course) to get a feel of what is it like to live in a Hutong. That is how I connect with a city, not through it’s glamorous hangouts but very common yet essential places. So now I am taking the map that HBA has provided us with in the beginning of year, and I will planning a “Quing’s exploration of Beijing,” which will include lots of museums and quaint places that can best represent the modern Beijing.

July 26, 2007 – Exciting Arobatics and its dark side

Last Saturday, we went to see ZhaJi, which is Chinese arobatics, and my goodness, it was one of the most amazing things I have seen in China so far. There were people flipping through hops that are like two stories high, going up and down a staircase with one hand and feet up in the air, and circling plates on really long and thin sticks. I was clapping the whole time along with all the HBA students. My favorite performer was this little boy around the age of 8 or 9, and he was jumping up and down on a teeter-totter and doing flips on the air. I thought he was very skilled and brave, and he was born to be a performer. But at the same time, it made me to look at him performing because what he is doing is such a dangerous activity, yet he does it with such easy. I can only image the vigorous training that goes on backstage and all the pain that he must have gone through to achieve the level of professionalism that he has displayed on stage today. He might look like a child but the way he composes himself even excels that of a grown up. I do not know why his parents allowed him to be an acrobat performer at such a young age, maybe it’s something of their control. But I know that if I were his mother and saw this performer, I would blame myself for being such an incapable mother.




The front...


Lions in hoops!

Okay, this was absolutely amazing in terms of the level of difficulty, who would have thought a teeter-totter would have been so dangerously exciting?


14 or so people on three bikes connected by the riders' arms - I have no idea how that even works...

July 29, 2007 – What makes China the way it is today?

Today on my way home from Tiantan, I had a really interesting chat with the taxi driver. He’s an old Beijinger and knows a lot about various restaurants and good places to go in Beijing, and he’s very opinionated about various things we talked about. Sometimes during the first five minutes of the ride, the conversation shifted to the current condition of the Chinese population and the spirit of the Chinese people. Mentioning that he heard on the radio the Chinese chairman announced that the GDP of the Chinese population has gone to some ridiculously number that I don’t remember, the driver criticized the government for pulling a blind over Chinese people’s eyes. Gradually, the conversation or rather, at this point it was simply a rant, about how weak the Chinese people are, mentally and spiritually. Unlike the Western people, he claimed, the Chinese do not know how to resist and rebel. Trying to explain his view better, the driver compared the rights and benefits that a government is supposed to provide for its people to a bowl of rice and a plate of vegetables. He said that if the government only gives its people a bowl of rice, the Chinese population will take it. Something is better than nothing, that’s their mentality. On the other hand, he continues, a Western civilization will refuse to eat that bowl of rice and instead, demand their full rights. They will rather starve than swallow their pride along with that bowl of rice. That is the spirit that the Chinese population lacks.

“But why is that? Why are we this way?” I asked him. I know it was unfair to ask a question like that because the answer involves not only a cultural understanding of the Chinese traditional way of thinking but also psychological and other aspects as well, and not to my surprise, he was unable to utter a satisfactory response. He blame this problem on Confucianism, and how this school of thought cultivates a society of weaklings. I did not really understand what he meant and he could really explain it, but from I have learned about Confucianism, I know that it is a school of thought that emphasizes “liyi” or your mannerism/social faux/academic grace. It is not that way of thinking that promotes you to go against what is set as tradition, and maybe that was the taxi driver was talking about. Anyways, this is just some random ramblings, I can expand on this more later after I have read some books about Confucianism.

August 4, 2007 – Oh, and how they judge!

As I walking with one of my HBA friends to Lush around noon for the long craved American style breakfast, including bacon (humm….) and pancakes with syrup (oh my goodness was that good), we talked about our adopted Chinese families and our language partners. I mentioned that my Chinese family never contacted me or my sib for weekend outings like they were supposed to nor is my language partner really interested in helping me practice Chinese, and I was wondering how does another student in our class get to have such good language partner and Chinese family. My friend simply replied, “that’s because he’s white.” Now, under normal circumstances, that would have been a racial slur, but in China, it’s not and it’s actually very, very true.

Before coming to HBA, my parents have prepared me for some mental shock in China. Besides the regular that Chinese people might spit randomly on the street or push you in public transportation, they also mentioned that I might feel discriminated against in China. I did not really understand back then, what did they mean I was going to be discriminated against by my own people? But after living in Beijing for the last two months, I understood what my parents meant by discrimination. It’s a new kind of racial discrimination. People here don’t treat me badly because I am different from them (well, that’s because I am not…), and they don’t treat me with extra care because I am one of them (because even though I am, there is nothing special about that). Rather, people here make me feel discriminated against because how they treat “laowai” or people with blonde/red hair and blue/green/anything but not dark brown eyes. Many people here, whether it’s small business owners or just regular citizens, often see them as someone of importance. Maybe this is because it’s interesting to interact with someone of a different culture in such a homogenous country, or maybe it’s because some Chinese people have the impression that all foreign travelers are rich, or maybe it’s because some Chinese feel that the Western culture is somehow more elegant than the Chinese tradition, and that is elevates themselves to speak/interact with someone who’s foreign. In tourist spots, my friends and I often see bunch of European travelers being surrounded by a few Chinese who are asking for pictures. In tea houses or other performing places, it’s always the audience with the blonde hair who gets picked to participate in an on-stage act. One of my friends at HBA (who’s an ABC) told that when she went to a bar with her friend (who’s white), bunch of Chinese college students only talked to her friend enthusiastically but ignored her the entire night. A lot of Chinese American have realized that here in China, they are not held on the same platter as their “true-American” counterparts, and it’s this awareness that have provided me with some new grounds to think about my racial identity.

In the States, I have regarded myself as Chinese because I was born in Chinese and my family environment has always been Chinese. Getting into Yale and interacting with other Chinese Americans on campus, I have slowly come to see myself as Chinese American, and this summer in Beijing reaffirmed this point of view. Even though I look like and speak like a Chinese person (okay, maybe the speaking part is a bit stretching it because many people here tell me I actually do not speak standard Chinese but have a Taiwanese accent), I do not think like a pure Chinese person. There are many western influence in my way of thinking and in my way of acting, I cannot see myself with the same background as another Chinese person who’s grown up in China. There is a lot more I can type on this issue, but I feel it might be too personal, nevertheless, I am happy that I was able to in an environment where I am not the racial minority and explore more my cultural identity.

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

HBA Field Study Week

So for the past few days of this week, I have not been stuck in my room memorizing Chinese or in class because it's field study week!! three cheers for that!

Anyways, for my field study topic, I chose to focus on the education system in China, because 1) I am interested in education in general, esp. that of the high school and college and 2) I think it would be interesting to compare the education system of the States and China. So far I have interviewed two high school graduates who had just taken GaoKao, which is Chinese version of the SAT, except it's much harder and meaningful. This is a test that you take when you are a senior in high school and it's takes place in the middle of June for three days. It's an extremely rigorous process in that it kind of determines what your life is going to be, and you only have one chance per year to take it. Students in China start to prepare for GaoKao starting in elementary school since from the day they entered school all their parents and teachers start to drill in their heads about the importance of GaoKao and how much does their score on GaoKao matter for their chance of getting in a good college, which translates into a good job, which then determines a good life. And this is true to some extent as there is no college application process as we know it in the States, in China, the determinant factor for whether a college will accept you or not is your GaoKao score. Different schools have different score requirement, so for example, QingHua or Beida, which are like the Harvard and Yale of China, obviously will have really high score requirement. But anyways, to show how important GaoKao is to the Chinese population, when I was in Beijing during the time of GaoKao, one of the taxi I took had to go around some streets because GaoKao was taking place at that location, and the government has this regulation that there cannot be cars near the place of GaoKao to provide the best testing environment for students. And taxi drivers have to take students to their testing places anytime during the time of GaoKao as long those students have a testing ticket, ensuring that all students will have the transportation tool to get to the place of GaoKao. There are these red banners encouraging students to study hard and perform well, and of course, there are these count down things that are along the lines of counting down for the Olympics. The two students I interviewed viewed GaoKao as something not the most ideal college application tool but a necessary one. Their views are shared by many of the college students and professors/teachers I have interviewed.


Friday, July 6, 2007

Independence Day..or not....

So July 4th was Independence Day, and our teacher announced that in light of the national holiday, we would not have homework on Wednesday night. Well, that sounded really good and we all cheered in Chinese, but it actually did not work out that way. So instead of the writing an essay on Wed. night, we had to do it Tues. night, and of course, none of us wrote an essay on Tues. night and waited until Wed. night to write it. So there goes our holiday relaxation time. And even though we did not have homework, we still had a quiz the next day, which means we still had to preview the chapters and memorize all the vocabularies - what a bummer!

Beijing Opera

So last Sat. night, HBA organized a trip to see the famous Beijing Opera. I was really excited because I have only heard my grandma sing some random parts of Beijing Opera to me when I was little and heard some those old radio channels. After a 30 minute bus ride, we arrived at Beijing Opera Theater (or something similar to that name) and I was immediately struck by the grander of the place. It was nothing like an old Beijing Opera house - it was gigantic, magnificently light with chandeliers hanging down from the high ceiling, and decorated with various posters, draperies, and other symbols of the opera tradition. Our seats were close to the center of the room, so we got a really nice view. There were these really fancy, traditionally designed Chinese tables surrounded by 6 or 7 matching armchairs. In the center of the tables, there were plates of fresh peaches (something very Chinese...I think...like it's a fruit of luxury...I am not sure...), these sesame/peanut/I don't know what they are candies and snacks. There were also teacups with a bit of tealeaves on the bottom, and this is the most exciting part of this whole opera experience (and I am sure many HBA students would agree with me...) - there were these guys who would carry a tin teapot with a really, really, really long spout (it was like 2/3 of my height!) and they would use those teapots to pour water for your tea. Like that was not hard enough - they would actually perform some hongfu-ish looking tricks and then pour your tea. For example, they can flip the teapot up in the air, twist it around a few times around their waist and arms, make it go in all directions, doing all these tricks with grace, agility,speed, and professionalism, and at the same time, not dropping one single drop of water on the ground!!!

After we "wooed" and "ahhed" over these tea, the curtain opened and the opera began. There was an ensemble of traditional Chinese instrument in the background, and a women dressed in a colorful, sparkling custom entered the stage. She sang in a really, really, really high voice, and thank goodness there were these screens with the lyrics and English translations, or else I would never have understood a single world she had sung. I was actually a bit disappointed in her performance because I remember the Beijing operas that I have heard when I was little were much better, but I guess that's because it was a long time ago and more talented people were interested in working in such an old job field (and also maybe the mic was too loud...). But either way, it was really cool.

The first act was followed by a more exciting performance because this time where was wushu or hongfu involved. I think the story was about a goddess falling in love with a mortal and the divine army got really mad and started a war or something like that. But there were many more characters this time with faster beat in the background. All these actors are flipping in the air and doing all types of trick with their fake weapons. There were also some funny parts with a person acting as a turtle (also part of the divine army...I think the goddess was from the sea or something..) and he was horsing around stage and could not flip himself over on his back (or shell). After this act was over, it was also time for us to leave.

(Oh, forgot to mention this, but there was an opportunity for us to go backstage (such VIP treatment!) and watch those actors put on stage makeup. It was really scary how much makeup they have to put on, and it reminded me of those 18th-century (or was it 17th?) French operas (the funny ones). One of the actors told me that there are lots of lead in the makeup they use, so they have to put on a layer of protective cream to clog up their pores before applying any stage makeup. Or else, the lead would seep through the pores and go into their body system, which will not be a good thing at all!)


Our delicious tea snacks....I felt very cultured...


Backstage observing the actors applying makeups and such..


And she sang beautifully...

Saturday, June 23, 2007

June 22-23

So I could not get the internet to work in my dorm yesterday, so here are two updates:

Friday, June 22
Our first HBA test! We have a cumulative test every Friday for like more than 3 hours with 2 hours for written and 1 and half for oral. It was actually pretty okay. I thought it was going to be this super hard exam, but it was manageable.

On Friday night, we met our Chinese host family. I was actually more nervous than I was expecting to be. I think I was nervous simply because of the fact I am Chinese - I feel that there is a greater amount of pressure on me to behave in a certain way. I was afraid that my host family might not think I am American enough or Chinese enough, so I was extremely nervous about meeting them. Like the exam, it actually turned out pretty okay too. Both of my "parents" are professors and they have a daughter in 11th grade. They are both very nice and understanding of our busy schedule, and they offered to take us to lunch when we have no planned activities. I keep on saying "us" because another girl and I share the same host family, and she's a third year student. We also visited their house/apartment, which was really cool because our host family lives on the top floor, which is the 18th. I have never lived that high before so I thought it was really fantastic. When we met her daughter, she was preparing for her hui kao, which is kind of like PSAT, but it's not to prepare you for the SAT, rather, it simply exempts you from certain subjects. It works this way because Chinese high school students must decide whether they want to major in social studies/language arts or science/math. For the Chinese PSAT, you take tests on subjects that are not of your major interest during 11th grade. Then when you reach 12th grade, you can focus on the subjects you are interested in and of which you will be taking on the SAT (or gao kao) so you can score better. It was really interesting to learn about the high school system in China from an actual Chinese student.

Sat. June 23
We climbed the Great Wall!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We went Simatai, a section of the Great Wall of China, and boy, was it steep! I could swear that I was tired already after only 5 minutes! What's interesting about our trip was that we met a lot of Chinese peasants who are eager to get us to buy things like fans or souvenirs from them. What's more interesting (and discriminating) is that they only talked to those with blonde hair/blue eyes/any attributes that look foreign. They never approached any of us who look/are Chinese. One of my friends at HBA felt a bit insulted because she's foreign too, and the fact she is Chinese does not change the fact that she grew up in America and speaks English perfectly. While it's nice to not have people bug you to buy their products, it was a bit annoying how discriminating people are.


The Yalies!

Rachel Mak!

How beautiful...